To Dermaplane or Not to Dermaplane

Dermaplaning has gained a lot of attention in the skincare world. It is often praised for its ability to create a smoother, more radiant complexion. But like any beauty trend, it comes with both benefits and drawbacks. This post will go through the pros and cons of dermaplaning, explain what the process involves, and highlight why it's more focused on exfoliation than hair removal. We will also explore the roles that vellus hairs, commonly known as "peach fuzz," play on our faces.

What is Dermaplaning?

Dermaplaning is an exfoliating service that uses a surgical scalpel to gently remove the outer layer of dead skin cells as well as fine vellus hair. Although it can seem like a simple hair removal method, its main goal is to improve skin texture and achieve a more radiant look by eliminating dead skin and debris.

The Pros of Dermaplaning

Enhanced Skin Texture

One of the most significant benefits of dermaplaning is improved skin texture. After the procedure, many people report having a softer and smoother complexion!

Improved Product Absorption

Once dead skin is removed, skincare products can penetrate more effectively. This enhances the performance of serums, moisturizers, and other treatments. Research indicates that effective absorption of these products can increase their efficiency by as much as 50%, leading to healthier skin over time.

Immediate Results

Many individuals notice brighter skin after just one session, making it a popular choice before special events like weddings or parties.

Makeup Application

Makeup fans often rave about dermaplaning’s effects on cosmetic application. With a smoother surface, foundation and other products apply more easily, leading to a more flawless appearance.

The Cons of Dermaplaning

Temporary Redness or Irritation

Though generally safe, some people may experience mild redness or irritation immediately after the treatment. This usually fades within a few hours. People with sensitive skin should consider this when deciding whether to proceed with dermaplaning. Also, because of the exfoliation, some clients may experience a mild "purging" sequence. This happens when the trapped oil, dirt and dead skin cells arise to the outer layers of the skin causing breakouts. No worries though, these are usually temporary and go away on their own. It's super important not to pick when this happens!

Risk of Cuts

There is a very small chance of minor cuts if dermaplaning is not done correctly. It reinforces the importance of choosing a skilled practitioner who understands this technique and can minimize potential risks.

Not Suitable for Everyone

Dermaplaning isn’t for everyone, especially those with active breakouts, eczema, or severe skin conditions. These individuals should avoid the treatment, as it may worsen their skin issues. Consulting a skincare professional can help determine if dermaplaning is right for you.

Maintenance Required

Although dermaplaning has immediate results, they are not lasting. To keep enjoying the benefits, regular treatments are often required.

Exfoliation vs. Hair Removal: Understanding the Difference

It’s vital to note that dermaplaning is primarily an exfoliation technique rather than just a method for hair removal. The focus is on removing dead skin cells, which helps to encourage cell turnover and preventing clogged pores.

Vellus hair, or "peach fuzz," also serves important functions. It helps retain moisture and may assist in regulating body temperature. Though removing this fine hair does not harm its functions, understanding its role can help people make informed choices about dermaplaning.

The Importance of Vellus Hairs

Vellus hairs on the face have various important roles. They help keep moisture locked in, assist with temperature regulation, and can even shield the skin from environmental factors. These hairs also serve as a moisture wick and help shield the skin from bacteria and pull oil away from the skin. While some people want to remove these fine hairs for aesthetic appeal, it's crucial to recognize their biological purpose.

While they may be "unsightly" so some, it's important to know they serve a very important purpose!

What To Look For In A Service Provider

I want to be VERY clear on this... dermaplaning should only be done by a licensed service provider. Those "at home" dermaplaning razor are simply that... razors! Dermaplaning should be done by someone who has vast training and is using a medical grade scalpel and practicing under a medical director. If an esthetician is offering this service and you find out they are not under a medical director, please do not have them do this service. This is a state law/regulation. Also, be sure that the service provider is getting a NEW blade for you every time. These are sterile, one-time use items. Also, be sure that your service provider is having a thorough consultation with you. It's important that we know certain things about your health, medications you're taking and even talking about your treatment plan! If a service provider is just doing the service to do it and not asking you any questions... YIKES. If you're a first time client and your esthetician is planning on doing a dermaplane with an enzyme or other exfoliation treatment? Double yikes!

Ex: NOT correct to use for dermaplaning

Ex: Surgical scalpel being used by a trained professional

Why I Don't Offer Dermaplaning

At the moment, I am not under a medical director so it would be against state regulations for me to offer the service. But the main reason I do not plan to offer this service is simply because I feel like the service can be too harsh for some and can cause barrier disruption. I prefer regular exfoliation with home care and professional peel treatments. This is just MY preference. I also feel like it can open the skin to irritation if you suffer from sensitivities. I always prefer a progressive approach rather than aggressive. But if you want to get a dermaplane, by all means... do it! Just find a reputable service provider who offers it.